|Posted by pghreptileshow on December 4, 2017 at 5:15 PM||comments (1)|
Pittsbugrh Reptile Show & Sale Vendor Spotlight - We are going to be taking the time to Highlight our amazing regular vendors at the show today we talked to - Rick Krumrine Reptiles
Business name - Rick Krumrine Repties
How long have you owned/ Breed Reptiles? I've had snakes and other unusual critters all my life and I bred my first snakes in 1989! They were a pair of Corn snakes.
Why do you own/ Breed ? Ever since I was a kid I've had a fascination with reptiles, snakes in general. That fascination continues to this day and I enjoy seeing people people who were once afraid of them turn into snake lovers! What more could you ask for, being able to take care of animals for a living!
What are your current projects? I have quite few things in the works, my favorites being some pine, bull and gopher morphs, lots of locality colubrids, some new ball python projects , lots of Burmese morphs, lots of rattlesnakes, and the list goes on and on...
What are you planning on bringing to the next show? Anything special ? Snakes, snakes and more snakes! Oh, and snakes!
Favorite animal? It's hard to really point to just one. I probably get more enjoyment from my rattlesnake collection than anything else!
Anything else you think we should know about You? People probably know too much already!
Website? Or contact info rickkrumrinereptiles.com or check me out on FB
|Posted by pghreptileshow on December 14, 2016 at 9:50 AM||comments (1)|
Baby it’s cold outside…Winter is here and with it the lower temperatures that cause many exotic pet owners to worry about how to transport their loved pets. Reptiles and most tropical birds, can be hard to transport safely in fridgid temps. In this article we will explore some recommendations on how to safely transport them during cold weather.
Snakes and Lizards
Reptiles are ectothermic, which means that they have to regulate their body temperature by moving to warmer or colder areas based on their needs. Their body temperature is the temperature of the environment they are in. If you live in Pittsburgh on a day that is 50 degrees and you are walking to the bus station with your reptile in a box with no means of additional heat support, his/her body temperature is going to be 50 degrees. This is clearly not ideal! However, there are many ways of creating a travel set up that is safe.
You can transport your pet reptile in an insulated environment such as a Styrofoam or other insulated coolers to maintain heat. If your reptile is small enough and hand tamed (such as many bearded dragons) you can wrap them up in a towel and tuck them inside your warm jacket. You can also try increasing the temperature of an enclosure by placing something warm in with the reptile and then enclosing the box/carrier. Examples include:
Hot water bottle
Hot water filled latex gloves
Hand warmers (available at most sporting goods stores, drugs stores, and online)
Hot water filled packs
Most amphibians do not need to be kept at temperatures over 70 degrees F (please research your specific species to determine what is safe). But remember that if you are outside in freezing temperatures, amphibians will need some supplemental heat sources such as described above together with a sponge saturated with tank water.
Aquatic turtles should not be transported in water for short distances (under 2 hours). You can transport them dry as described above. They do not need water constantly and it is much more difficult to regulate water temperature outside the home.
Sudden changes in temperatures can be dangerous for tropical birds. But did you know birds have built in down coats? Their downy feathers are used to cool them down in extreme heat, and warm them up in colder weather. In general, birds are capable of tolerating lower temperatures when they are exposed to them incrementally, however moving a bird from a warm apartment into a freezing snowy day can be a shock to them. Here are some ideas for transporting your birds safely. It is our recommendation if possible to use heated vehicles rather than the bus.
For smaller birds (cockatiels, budgies, canaries) similar methods to that of the reptile can be used. Place the bird in a small box (shoeboxes are a good option) with small holes and place a warming device inside with the bird. Be aware that birds can and do chew, so any warm object should have a towel or some sort of protective barrier between it and the bird. Also be aware that any substances used for self-heating hand warmers may be toxic to birds and should likewise be kept out of reach of the bird. And be sure that the warming device is not overheated, as these enclosures can get very warm.
*Place your bird in a small bird-safe carrier and swaddle the carrier in towels. Fleece works particularly well to protect carriers from wind while not blocking air supply.
*For larger birds, warm up an electric heating pad and secure it underneath your carrying cage. Then swaddle the cage with a blanket, warm coat, or towels to keep the heat in.
*Place a cage that has been already swaddled with towels inside a duffle bag. This will provide an extra layer for heat, as well as give an easy way to carry your bird.
*Some birds enjoy being snuggled into a warm coat or jacket and can benefit from the body heat. This technique should only be used for birds who are accustomed to traveling this way and who do not attempt to escape. Do not try this method for the first time in the winter with a flighted bird.
We hope that this article reduces your worries about how to transport your exotic pets or new purchases from the Pittsburgh Reptile Show this winter. Please call us if you have more concerns and we will be more than happy to answer any questions. 724-516-0441
|Posted by pghreptileshow on November 10, 2016 at 1:40 PM||comments (0)|
When it comes to taking care of a reptile pet it is quite different then taking care of a cat or dog. A sick or stressed reptile does not always really show what is going on, which makes it hard to define the problem. However there are some symptoms that could indicate a problem with your beloved pet. You will need to keep a good eye on this and act accordingly.
Generally speaking it is crucial to have some proper knowledge when buying a reptile. These animals need special care, specific to the type. For a reptile to be healthy, it needs to be kept in the right environment and at the right temperature with enough light (with changes in day/night). Their habitat needs to be furnished with plants, rocks etc. and there needs to be enough food specially bought for the reptile. If any of these aspects are off track, lacks of health will be a common outcome. Also take notice of the fact that, when bought at expos and other events, these reptiles are not healthy and need to be taken good care of before they become so. Extra nutrition, like dusting, will help getting your pet reach its normal health level.
Now how would you actually spot any problems with your reptile? First of all, a healthy animal doesn’t have any lateral (extra) folds in the skin, when this usually means dehydration. Also, its color has to be bright and saturated and not dull or darkened. But there are more ways to spot a stressed or ill reptile than just appearance.
Changes that could indicate stress or illness
Always check for change in food habits: is it eating more or less? Does it choose for higher moisture food?
Change in feces and urates: did the consistency change? Is it happening more or less than usual?
Changes in behavior can tell a lot about a problem: Is it more or less active? Did it become less tame? Is it soaking in the water bowl for longer than usual?
There could also be change in the speed or frequency of shedding.
Then there are problems that could be seen by observation: Is it gaping for a long time? Is it shaky? Is it having trouble with climbing? Basically anything that is off from what the pet usually does could identify problems.
If any of these things occur, it does not have to mean that something very bad is happening to your pet. Sometimes a little change in nutrition, hydration and environment could solve everything. When your pet is dehydrated or isn’t eating properly, this could be because the supplies aren’t easy to reach. When there is change in behavior this could mean that there day/night temperature and light needs to be adjusted accordingly. Really pay attention to the reptile and check on it daily to see if any problems occur. In order to make sure your pet is getting all the nutrition it needs, you can start dusting its food to reach the daily vitamin intake.
When everything has been checked and there shouldn’t be anything wrong with the environment or nutrition, or when you are just not sure about your pet’s health and worried about it, don’t hesitate and take it to a vet. Call a breeder or check with a local reptile Show for help too! Always keep in mind that, when you purchase a reptile, you need to make sure there is a vet that is specialized in reptile care available in your neighborhood.
|Posted by pghreptileshow on November 8, 2016 at 1:30 PM||comments (1)|
Subspecies: West African Dwarf Crocodile, Congo Dwarf Crocodile
Other names: Broad-snouted Crocodile, Bony Crocodile, Black Crocodile
Average Length: 5 ft (1.5 m)
Average Weight: 40 to 70 lbs (18 to 32 kg)
Life Expectancy: 75 years
The dwarf crocodile is the smallest true crocodile in the world. This little crocodile’s home is the rivers fringed with rainforest, from Senegal, West Africa to the east and south of the Congo Basin and northern Angola.
They prefer the year-round moist and warm climate of the rainforests where they rule the waters. Their choice is the lower reaches of the rivers, where the water flows at a leisurely rate, and in deep, quiet pools sheltered by overhanging vegetation. Dwarf crocodiles are also sometimes found in pools in swamps and even amidst savannah vegetation.
It will also dig burrows into the riverbanks, used as hideouts during the day. Unlike their bigger relatives, they prefer not to bask in the sun out in the open during the daytime. Where rainfall is seasonal and the ponds dry up in the dry season, these crocodiles may dig deep burrows for themselves as shelter until the water returns.
The dwarf crocodile is a heavily armored reptile. One of its most distinctive characteristics are the tough scales that cover their entire body. Most crocodiles do not have such armored scales on their underside. The bony scales not only protecting it from injury but also preventing the animal from getting burnt by the hot sun.
It is usually colored black with a yellowish underside that features many black patches. Juveniles have a light brown banding on the body and tail, with yellowish patterns on the head. In all individuals, the snout is short and blunt.
The crocodile has a number of adaptations that aid it when in the water. Their vertically flattened, muscular tail is used to propel their bodies when swimming. Webbing between their toes help them negotiate the slippery banks. Its eyes and nostrils are located on the top of its heads to enable the individual to both see and breathe while the rest of its body is submerged. This allows the creature to watch for prey and predators while almost completely hidden.
Dwarf crocodiles snap their strong jaws shut to catch their prey, secured by a powerful bite from their cone-shaped, razor-sharp teeth. Unlike a number of other animal species, this species can continuously regrow and replace their old teeth, which are pushed out by the new ones that develop below. However, they are unable to chew food and must rely on tearing their prey into pieces that can then be swallowed whole.
Like all crocodilians, this carnivorous species is an effective aquatic predator. But in line with its smaller size, the dwarf crocodile’s prey is also smaller. Fish, frogs, birds, and crabs make up the bulk of its diet. It will also take advantage of the dense vegetation to fee on an occasional small mammal.
Its diet will change with the seasons. During the raining season, it will eat the readily available fish when swollen rivers bring an influx of fish into their habitats. During the dry season, they feed mainly on crustaceans.
Like larger crocodiles, they can survive for long periods without food.
The dwarf crocodile is a nocturnal and generally solitary animal that chooses to hunt in the dark. During the day, they rest in burrows that are dug into the grounds of the river banks. If however, it is unable to find a suitable burrowing site, the crocodile will hide amongst submerged tree roots that hang into the water.
As a reptile, it is cold-blooded, meaning that it has to sunbathe to warm its body. When it gets too hot, it will seek shade or enter the water to cool down.
Breeding happens according to the seasons. North of the equator, breeding season occurs in May or June during the wet season. South of the equator, it would be October or November. This is the only time when individuals interact.
Following mating, females will make mounds of vegetation to built their nest, located at the water’s edge. They will lay clutches of around ten eggs, although up to twenty have been recorded. The wet, rotting vegetation will actually generate some heat to help the eggs hatch. After 100 days of incubation, the young, who are born only 11 inches (28 centimeters), will hatch. Immediately, they will begin to vocalise, which stimulates the female to help the hatchlings to escape from the nest. After retrieving the young, the mother will escort her offspring to the water, staying close by to watch over them for some time.
As a potential prey to so many predators like large fish, birds, mammals, and reptiles (even other crocodiles), only a few from each batch will make it to maturity at the age of five or six years.
It is not clear whether the dwarf crocodiles should constitute one species or three. Recent research has indicated that there may be three genetically distinct groups.
The genus name, Osteolaemus, means ‘bony throat’, referring to its heavy armor.
The species name, tetraspis, means ‘four shields’, referring to the four prominent shield-like scales on the back of its neck.
It is smaller than the largest lizard in Africa, the water monitor, which can exceed 2m in length
A newborn dwarf crocodile hatchling is not significantly smaller than a Nile crocodile hatchling, which are usually 12 inches (30 centimeters) long. The dwarf crocodiles’ smaller adult size is due to a much slower rate of growth.
|Posted by pghreptileshow on November 7, 2016 at 1:10 PM||comments (0)|
Wanted to share my list of local vets that care for reptiles- If you know of any that did not make my list please share!
Metropolitan Veterinary Hospital South
560 McNeilly Road Pittsburgh, PA 15226 Tel: (412) 344-6888 Fax: (412) 344-5459
Services: 24 hour routine,critical and emergency care for canine, feline, pocketpets, herps, exotics
VCA Northview Animal Hospital
223 Siebert Rd, Pittsburgh, PA 15237 - Phone: 412-695-3541
Services: Veterinary Dentistry, Small Animal Vet, Bird Vet, Exotic Animal Vet, Veterinary Medical Specialties, Veterinary Surgery, Veterinary Vaccinations, Veterinary Euthanasia, Animal Flea Control, Reptile Vet, Veterinarians, Emergency Veterinary Clinic, Spaying/Neutering, 24-Hour Vet
VCA Fox Chapel Animal Hospital
1152 Freeport Road,Pittsburgh, PA 15238 Phone : 412-449-9567
Services: Animal Flea Control, Veterinary Dentistry, Small Animal Vet, Animal Microchipping, Exotic Animal Vet, Veterinary Vaccinations, Spaying/Neutering, Veterinary Euthanasia, Veterinarians, Veterinary Medical Specialties, Animal Grooming, Veterinary Surgery
Gloria J. Goodman, VMD
3000 Concord Road, Aston, PA Phone (610) 494-2811
Services: Avian & Exotic Animal Medical Center
Wright Veterinary Medical Center
3247 Wimmer Road Bethlehem, PA 18020 Tel: (610) 865-2611
Services: Avian & Exotic Animal Medical Center
Wintergreen Animal Hospital
8439 Wattsburg Road Erie, PA 16509 Tel: (814)825-6735
All Pet Animal Hospital
5007 William Flynn Highway Gibsonia, PA 15044 Tel: (724) 444-6600
Animal Medical Hospital
1909 North Atherton Street State College, PA 16803 Tel: (814) 234-0201
|Posted by pghreptileshow on August 4, 2016 at 9:20 PM||comments (0)|
So I got a Phone call this AM from a snake owner trying to trouble shoot a sick snake that they have owned for over 15 years now... Here was one of two things i thought of and then started looking it up and here's some neat infomation i thought i would share.
Artical By Elise Xavier
Although a good number of reptiles, and pets in general, are infected with salmonella, it’s actually quite near impossible to tell if your reptile has salmonella, as the visible symptoms are minuscule if they are at all noticeable. There are over 2200 strains of salmonella, and most animals, including cats, dogs, and other mammals, as well as reptiles and amphibians, are able to be infected by many of them. That being said, in many cases, a strain of salmonella will not cause any symptoms to the host, but if passed on to another species, will make the new host quite ill. Thus, there are strands of salmonella that will do nothing to your snake, even if it is infected, yet if passed on to you, may cause you to become severely ill. This is why it’s always a good idea to wash your hands after you’ve handled your pet, even if you don’t suspect he or she has salmonella.
When an animal does manifest the symptoms of salmonella, which, as has been stated, does not happen all the time even if the animal is infected, symptoms may include weight loss, dehydration, diarrhea, and sometimes lethargy. Yet weight loss, dehydration, diarrhea and lethargy in snakes can all be caused by other things. Most of these symptoms, for example, are frequently caused by improper husbandry conditions in the snake’s enclosure, such as temperatures or humidity being too high or low. So you should never jump to the conclusion that your pet has salmonella just because you see one of the above symptoms. You should, however, be concerned about your pet if it has had a severe case of diarrhea, or shows any of the symptoms listed in extremes. Whether or not your snake has salmonella should be left for a vet to decide, but regardless of whether or not your pet has an infection, severe symptoms should not be taken lightly. Therefore, if your pet has them, you should arrange to see a vet immediately.
In order to test for salmonella, vets will take environmental swabs, samples of animal feces which contain bacterial culture, or even rectal swabs, and use these samples to test for any infection. That being said, even these tests sometimes give false negatives, as, although the bacteria does show up in feces, it does not show up in all instances. This means that even if your pet has salmonella and samples are tested by a vet, different samples will need to be collected and analyzed at different times to be certain that the negative result is not a false negative, and to be certain that the pet does not have salmonella. This results in it being very hard to test for salmonella, let alone to diagnose it by mere sight.
|Posted by pghreptileshow on July 6, 2016 at 6:25 PM||comments (0)|
Its summer time - at my house that means my kids are constantly board.... here is something i did with my kids last year that they enjoyed.
Have kids paint with water color one plate... Step one.
I didn't think it was a big deal if I just eyeballed the center of the plate, but if you are a perfectionist you might want to measure. If the fastener isn't in the exact center of the plate, when you spin the plates you will get this:
Also when the kids need out of the house you should go to the Pgh Reptile Show! Next Show July 10th !
|Posted by pghreptileshow on June 21, 2016 at 2:10 PM||comments (0)|
We will be setting up a booth at the Steel City Pet Expo This Weekend June 25th and 26th, we will not be selling animals at this event but will have a few Adoptable animals and a large petting Learning area during the whole event.
If your going out to the Event Make sure to stop by and say hi. Grab a flyer ect.
Also Trisha from the Erie Reptile Expo will be sharing the space with us if your looking for a 2nd event in the area to go to check it out
http://www.eriereptileexpo.com/ Their next event is July 16th 2016 in Erie PA
Our next show is July 10th 2016 at the Harmar house See you there!
|Posted by pghreptileshow on June 2, 2016 at 1:55 PM||comments (0)|
We all love our reptiles, but most of us loathe their lunch. Many reptiles that we commonly keep as pets are insectivores, and the most commonly available feeder insect is the cricket.
I often get calls from Reptile show customers asking one of two things-
“What can I do to keep these darn things alive?” and “how do I keep them from escaping?”
Even though we tend to simply think of them as food for our pets, crickets are living animals themselves and these points need to be kept in mind.
They need to eat: Crickets will eat almost anything. I feed a special mixture of oatmeal, fish food, turtle food & dog food crumbs.
They need to drink: Crickets aren’t the smartest creatures, and if you put a dish of water in their enclosure they might drown. I use a sponge in a bowl and make sure it stays moist.
You need to clean out their enclosure: Even if you are just keeping them in an old plastic takeout container that you don’t really care about, waste products and dead crickets must be removed on a daily basis. When debris begins to break down it creates ammonia gas. After enough ammonia accumulates, the remaining crickets can quickly suffocate and die off.
You don’t have to have crickets jumping all over your house:Crickets are naturally tunnel/cave dwelling creatures, therefore they are attracted to darkness. You can use this to your advantage to keep them in their container, and off of your floors. Cricket Keepers are a great thing to have. They have slots on their sides where dark plastic tubes are inserted. Being attracted to the darkness, the crickets hide inside of the easily removable tubes. All you have to do is slide out the tube, shake some crickets into your pet’s enclosure, then pop the tube back into the cricket pen. I have seen these Keepers at All our shows with Dell and Azo Our two wholesale dry goods vendors! If you don't have one i suggest it!
We hope to see every one at the Next Pittsburgh Reptile Show www.pghreptileshow.com 724-516-0441
|Posted by pghreptileshow on June 2, 2016 at 1:55 PM||comments (1)|
So you want a pet snake?
Most first time snake shoppers will simply pick out the one that appeals to them the most, aesthetically. Looks are certainly important, but there are other factors that should not be overlooked when deciding which one may be the best for you!
Here are a few things you should think about before your first purchase!
Im going to point out some of the most commonly available snakes in the pet trade. Please remember these are My OPINIONS they are the result of personal experience only, and though debatable, should be considered as “approximately” correct. Please don’t take it personally if I’ve rated your favorite snake toward the bottom of any certain category, as ALL of the snakes we look at today can make excellent pets for the right person.
The Red Tail Boa is certainly one of the most common snakes in the pet trade, but they are also one of the most commonly gotten rid of. They are attractive enough, and make a fun show-piece, but ultimately get much larger (in excess of 10 feet) than most people are comfortable with long-term. Add to this, that they are a tropical species requiring high humidity and temperatures that are difficult to duplicate in captivity, and it’s easy to make the case that these snakes are better left to those that have at least moderate reptile experience. They certainly can still make a great first snake, however, for those resolved to give it proper care and attention.
As pretty as they are, these snakes can still be a challenge to a novice snake keeper. As mountain dwellers, they prefer cooler temperatures than many of their close relatives. Babies can be very difficult to get eating, and even adults may occasionally become problem feeders. That said, they still tolerate some handling and are a good size to work with. So long as you are confident in be able to meet its needs, a Mountain King snake can be a very rewarding pet.
Milk snakes come in a wide variety of colors and sizes. They can make great pets, but it should be noted that they are commonly more shy than King snakes, and especially as babies, will typically be more prone to musk or bite when being held.
These snakes are among my personal favorite! They are relatively small, but have as much or more personality than any other snake I have ever seen. Though they are rarely defensive, they are masters at bluffing, and will sometimes hiss loudly, hood up almost cobra like, and even play dead if threatened. These behaviors are rather uncommon in captive conditions, but if it happens, don’t let them fool you!
Bulls and Gopher snakes are some of the hardiest snakes on the market, and they rarely have feeding issues. Some varieties, can however get a little on the large side, may exhibit some aggressive behavior, and will eat much more than most pet snakes.
Ball Pythons make some of the best pet snakes out there! They come in as many different patterns as you can imagine. Normal Ball Pythons can be found for around $50, but it is not uncommon to find rarer color schemes upwards of $10,000 and higher! They stay relatively small for a Python (5 feet), are durable and calm for handling by even the inexperienced person, and are fairly hardy and easy to breed.
There are multiple subspecies of common kingsnakes (California, Mexican Black, Desert, Speckled, Brooks etc. etc.) and many different morphs of each. Common Kings attain a manageable size, are hardy, and eat well. They are extremely common in the pet trade as well, and most of those available are captive bred. All things considered, this is one of the best starter snakes on the market.
Garter Snakes are one of the most common snakes in the U.S. and are often kept as pets. Though they are typically inexpensive ad hardy, Garters can have the tendency to musk more often than most pet snakes. They also tend to do better on a diet of fish, which may make feeding a bit more problematic.
Cheap, hardy, common, readily available as captive bred, good eaters and pretty to boot. A well started (already eating readily) Corn snake is hard to beat for the novice snake keeper. These snakes come in more colors than anything else on the market and can make for exciting breeding projects as well!
Welcome to the exciting world of snake ownership! Keeping snakes as pets requires an additional amount of care and consideration. If you bring a snake home, be prepared to be confronted by family members and friends that do not care as much for snakes as you do. It is important to show understanding to their preferences and try to educate them. It is NEVER a good idea to tease, chase, or surprise anyone with your pet snake. Snakes are not meant to be prank material, and treating them as such, is a good way to end up with an injured or dead pet, and costly therapy bills for the one exposed to the traumatic event. Please exercise common sense and responsibility when introducing others to your pet.
Keeping pet snakes, can be a very rewarding hobby, and an extremely educational experience. I learned many fascinating things while keeping snakes, that I never learned from reading the countless books I had my nose in as a kid. Snakes are one of the easiest pets to keep, yet can still be as stimulating as a bird, cat or fish.
If you are fellow snake keeper, we would love to hear what your first pet snake was, and what you would have done differently, given the chance. If you are thinking about buying your first pet snake, please share the experience with us!
Hope to see you at the Next Pittsburgh Reptile show www.PghReptileShow.com