|Posted by pghreptileshow on December 25, 2018 at 8:30 PM||comments (4)|
This Months Vendor Spotlight interview was with - Timothy J. Gould
Timothy is one of our Venomous Vendors and we are very proud to have him highlight his collection at our shows monthly. Here is a little more about him.
How Long have you been breeding / Collecting Reptiles?
November 21st marked 27 years keeping serpents; December will mark 22 years breeding them.
Why do you Breed / Own Reptiles?
I own/breed for pure enjoyment, observational study and scientific contributions. Supplemental income is only secondary.
What are your Current projects?
I have alot going on right now here is a small list :
Aspidelaps lubricus cowlesi (Kunene Shield, a.k.a. “Coral” Cobra)
Cerastes vipera (Sahara Sand Viper [the smaller, Sinai Peninsula locality]
Chrysopelea paradisi (Paradise Tree, a.k.a. “Flying” Snake)
Dasypeltis gansi (West-African Egg-Eating Snake)
Hemachatus haemachatus (Rinkhal’s Spitting Cobra - succeeded breeding this very difficult-to-breed species this year!)
Heterodon kennerlyi (Mexican Hognose Snake)
Heterodon nasicus (Western Hognose Snake)
Lampropeltis getula splendida x L. g. nigrita (Desert x Mexican Black Kingsnake)
Langaha madagascariensis (Madagascar Leaf-Nosed Snake)
Leioheterodon geayi (Mad. Speckled Hognose Snake)
Leioheterodon madagascariensis (Mad. Giant Hognose Snake)
Leioheterodon modestus (Mad. Blonde/Golden Hognose Snake - succeeded breeding this very difficult-to-breed species in both 2017 and 2018!)
Madagascarophis sp. (Mad. Cat-Eyed Snake - currently have six (6) eggs of this rare species due to hatch next month!)
Naja nigricincta nigricincta (Western Barred, a.k.a. “Zebra” Spitting Cobra)
Naja pallida (Red Spitting Cobra)
Naja samarensis (Samar Spitting Cobra)
Naja siamensis (Indochinese, a.k.a. “Black & White” Spitting Cobra)
Sistrurus tergeminus tergeminus (Western Massasauga Rattlesnake)
Trimeresurus albolabris (White-Lipped Tree Viper - copulation took place on 9/8, should expect neonates in the next 1-3 months!)
...and that’s about it for now, ha.
What will you be bringing to the upcoming Pgh Reptile show?
I will have up to the following (if they don’t sell before)
0.1.0 CBB’17 Naja nigricincta nigricincta
1.3.0 CBB’17 Naja siamensis
5.3.0 CBB’18 Leioheterodon modestus
0.1.0 CBB’18 Heterodon nasicus
0.0.6 CB’18 Madagascarophis sp.
What is your Favorite animal?
My favourite animal is of course the serpent, but if You mean in my collection...Man, that’s tough, but probably ‘Eversor’, my ~16-year-old 0.1 Boiga dendrophila dendrophila (Mangrove Snake) acquired over 14 years ago. ‘Rinky & Dinky’ and ‘Goldilocks & Pax’, however, my 1.1 Hemachatus haemachatus (Rinkhal’s Spitting Cobra) and 1.1 Naja nigricincta nigricincta (Western Barred, a.k.a. “Zebra” Spitting Cobra) respectively, have the most intriguing personalities and are very smart, inquisitive and voracious eaters that keep me on my toes! Specializing in rare, unusual and misunderstood families/genera/species, though, many of my animals are enlightening and sometimes take the cake for a day’s enjoyment, such as my Dasypeltis spp. (Egg-Eating Snakes) and my recently deceased ‘Trunks’ (1.0 Acrochordus javanicus [Javan Wart Snake]), R.I.P. 5/13/2011 - 11/4/2018.
Anything else we might want to know about you?
I am a musician of 21.5 years with an intention to finally, professionally record and release an album in 2019 - on vinyl, too, which I love! I also love Nature, hiking and anything outdoorsy, and I play ice hockey almost weekly (I am a goalie). I love to read and write, I am a fancier of human genetics, genealogy, anthropology and ethnography, and I am highly inspired by Europe’s ancient religion, mythology and lore. I am a Dragon Ball Z, Skyrim and Metal Gear Solid nerd. Lastly, I hold quite the strong convictions and unconventional philosophy on Life, and I post quite provocatively about it all, so You have been forewarned if You Add me on Facebook! https://www.facebook.com/timothy.j.gould.7?ref=br_rs" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/timothy.j.gould.7?ref=br_rs
|Posted by pghreptileshow on November 29, 2018 at 10:25 AM||comments (1)|
Going to try and bring this idea back - we have so many amazing vendors at our show, that i'm hoping to spotlight all of them but this weeks Vendor Spotlight is Dendro Hollow
Chip Reynolds - Dendro Hollow https://www.facebook.com/DendroHollow/" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/DendroHollow/
#1- How long have your owned / Breed Reptiles / Amphibians?
I have owned and cared for reptiles and amphibians for over 25 years. My wife Ashley “married into the hobby” 9 years ago and has fallen in love with all of our “amphibi-kids”.
I have been breeding for roughly 15 years. Starting with green anoles, moving into Fire Belly Toads, Green Tree Frogs, Whites Tree Frogs, Cuban Tree Frogs, and so on. Eventually progressing into Poison Dart Frogs (primarily), along with crested geckos and gargoyle geckos.
#2. Why do you own / breed?
We own and breed reptiles and amphibians, because we find them to be fascinating creatures. (If you ask my wife, it’s because I’m a Pisces.) I love researching anything and everything I can about all of them. Quite a few years ago we became interested in Bioactive animal care. We loved that we could mimic natural environments. This love led to the founding of Dendro Hollow. We now handcraft three custom Bioactive substrates for the most common habitats (Desert, Forest & Tropical) and sell all of the extras such as cleaner crew, plants, mosses, leaves etc. to really complete the build. It doesn’t matter how many times we produce a frog or a lizard, it’s just as exciting as the first time. It’s not a job to care for them and raise them, it truly is a passion. There’s an unbridled sense of satisfaction in properly housing a critter to the point that they will reproduce for you without forcing them to do so. This is due to the comfort and security that a naturalistic vivarium provides. We also believe that there are enough animals in captivity and no need to pull from the wild ( a.k.a. Field Collected animals.) So through breeding animals we are hoping to help reduce the number of animals harvested from the wild. We want our younger generations to be able to enjoy these beautiful creatures for many years to come.
#3. What are your current breeding projects?
Chines Cave Geckos (Goniurosaurus hainanensis), Russian Tortoises (Agrionemys horsfieldii), Tomato Frogs (Dyscophus guineti), and Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis macularius) of various morphs. Some of these are new territory for us, so we are thrilled to undertake this adventure. We will be showcasing our newest substrate, “Hollowed Ground Forest Blend” at the next show. This blend is suitable for ball pythons, cornsnakes, tegus, & a lot of inverts. Essentially anything in the mid humidity range ( 20% to 80% ). Our Ball Pythons have perfect sheds every time – proven! We will also have our “Hollowed Ground Desert Blend”. We have had this available for approximately 9 months. It is ideal for bearded dragons and other agamids, sand boas, leopard geckos, Russian tortoises, etc… Truly anything in the 40% and lower humidity range. I would like to address the IMPACTION concern I know everyone reading this will be concerned with. Impaction is not a substrate problem, it’s a proper husbandry problem! If you do not have proper temps, humidity, UVB (if neccesary), diet, and hydration, any animal will become impacted. If you have no substrate, and choose to use other cage liners, and the previous mentioned things aren’t at proper levels, you’re just prolonging the death of the animal or at the very least, creating a very unhealthy and unhappy animal. We literally tested our blends for well over 18 months each until we felt that we had perfected them. We tested for proper humidity retention, proper drainage, and proper plant growth. These recipes for the substrates are not new. They have been around for nearly 20 years in Europe. I was lucky enough to meet a foreign ally that aided me in perfecting our blends. He is a herpetologist, and has degrees in Botany, Biology, and Entomology. He has graced us with the base recipes and we built upon it to take them to the next level. There are only a handful of companies making these type of substrates in our country, and we are 1 of 2 doing the desert and forest substrates. I will tell anyone to “take the Pepsi Challenge” with our product vs. our competition. We encourage our customers to really analyze our competitions products and see if they think some ingredients are lacking. Lets just say our substrates have no less than 7 ingredients each! Sorry folks, it really is a secret family recipe! As always we are looking forward to seeing everyone at the next show!
#4. What will you be bringing to the next Pittsburgh Reptile Show?
We will be bringing over 100 frogs, ( 5 different species of dart frogs, from a variety of locales), crested geckos, leopard geckos, whites tree frogs, chubby frogs, Argentine black and white tegu, and Pacman frogs.
#5. What is your Favorite Animal?
HMMM...favorite animal….I would have to say frogs in general are my favorite animal, which is why I chose them as my primary pet to breed. They are very vocal, more intelligent than most people realize, and very active and beautiful.
Tell me anything you think people want to know about Dendro Hollow?
Some things I would like more people to know about myself, my wife, and our company Dendro Hollow. We specialize in Dart frogs and Bioactive , but most people don’t even know what that term means! It is fairly new to our area. Simply put, it means to set up a naturalistic vivarium that mimics the animals natural habitat. A mini-Ecosystem! You plant live plants in the substrate and add cleaner crew insects to the substrate, all of which cleans the tank for you. It’s self cleaning folks! You don’t have to rip the tank apart every few weeks and clean it, or replace the substrate. It is also completely healthy for the animal and brings out their natural instinct and behavior. There is no mold in the tank, no stink, no anaerobic bacteria to worry about, and no animal waste. We have dart frog vivarium’s that have been set up for years, never cleaned or ripped apart. They are as fresh and clean as the day they were built and the frogs are thriving. We have had our bearded dragons setup in desert Bioactive vivariums for years now with the same result. Over the time we have been in business, we have actually converted quite a few vendors over to bio and they love it. We have recently acquired a warehouse to begin producing our products on a larger scale and will be shipping nationally soon! Keep an eye out for our new website! We currently house over 200 animals not counting eggs, tadpoles, or babies. Tons of frogs, Russian tortoises, tegus, anoles, Cuban knight anoles, veiled chameleons, bearded dragons, gargoyle/leopard/crested/golden/Chinese cave/mourning geckos, ball pythons, Saharan sand boa, California king snake, tomato frogs, chubby frogs, whites tree frogs, red leg walking frogs, 33 species of dart frogs, 2 chihuahuas, and 1 cat. We are experienced pet owners and breeders, and love to educate others that may be new to this hobby!
At the next Pittsburgh reptile show & sale we would like to encourage anyone interested to come chat with us and learn something new! We can help you save yourself a lot of time and money!
Make sure to Stop by say Hi tell them you saw them on the Vendor Spotlight!
|Posted by pghreptileshow on June 9, 2018 at 11:05 AM||comments (0)|
I've had many people over the years ask me what my Favorite reptile is. well i decided to let everyone know via a blog entry why i think Sand boas the the best!
First let me tell you I have owned everything from Full grown Burmese pythons to other tiny breeds like Childrens pythons, Savu and more. I love all of them but The little Sand boa has taken my heart.
And with a face like this how could i say anthing else!
I first fell in love with the Kenyan sand boa at a Pittsburgh Reptile show about 20 years ago now! It was a small normal colored one and it look up from its little display container and wanted me i could just tell.. She came home and started the craze at my house over the years ive breed over 500 kenyan sand boas and have had all kinds of color morphs some of my fave ive taken some photos of and will share.
Are sand boas for you??
Kenyan sand boas are super easy to care for small snakes rarely ever getting over 20 inches long they and have a life span of about 20 years! They can happily live in a 10 gallon tank for life. I keep my sand boas together in a large plastic tote system with good air holes and a secure lid. but most people like to display them in a tank with a screen lid. If you choose to keep sand boas in a tank I advise using an undertank heating pad under one side of the cage, left on 24/7, along with an incandescent overhead lamp during the day, to heat the air in the cage. The hotspot under the light should be approximately 95 degrees Fahrenheit and the cooler side of the enclosure should be around 80 degrees. A drop to the mid-70s at night is acceptable.
I have kept Kenyan sand boas communally, with no issues whatsoever, and even feed them together however most people recomend sepratateing them for feedings.
Given the Kenyan sand boa’s propensity for burrowing, cage accessories should be minimal. Heavy rocks should be avoided, unless they are firmly fastened to the enclosure. If a Kenyan sand boa burrows beneath heavy rocks and causes a mini-avalanche, the result could be injury or even death to the snake. Despite its small size, the Kenyan sand boa can be very destructive to your cage’s interior design, so décor does not need to be excessive. On my display tank ive always decorated it for the upcomming holliday just for fun!
Decorative branches can be a nice touch, but they are not necessary. In my 20-plus years of working with Kenyan sand boas, I don’t ever remember seeing a Kenyan sand boa even attempt to climb. Kenyan sand boas are terrestrial creatures that prefer to spend most of their time underground.
Many people naturally assume the only choice of substrate for the Kenyan sand boa is sand. The truth is the Kenyan sand boa can be kept on a variety of substrates, including aspen bedding, coconut mulch, play sand and even newspaper. I have kept and bred Kenyan sand boas on all of these materials . I do recommend staying away from gravel, corncob bedding and, for all reptiles, cedar shavings.
Feeding - Sand boas usually start off on pinky mice and a full grown female sand boad can take on a full size mouse, all of my sand boas have switched to frozen mice very easily. making them all very easy to feed to no need to try and find live pinky mice all the time. I feed my boas every 10 days. and have found this to be perfect for healthy sand boas.
What else makes them cool? Color choices! There are a ton of Cool Color Morphs out there now for the kenyan sand boa. Check out this chart i found the other day it was too cute not to share!
Also Breeding is easy they give live birth and it can be a fun family project to see what color morphs you can come up with there are still tons of new morphs to come with these guys for sure! Im a sucker for the Anery i think a nice fat Anery looks like a happy cow snake and who can pass up a cow snake lol. Anyways i love seeing these guys at the show there are a hand full of vendors everymonth who display these guys for sale and i suggest you come check them out! they are a low cost, fun to play with easy to care for snake that might not scare away your mother.
Hope to see you at an upcoming Pittsburgh reptile show www.pghreptileshow.com
a few more favs.
www.pghreptileshow.com 724-516-0441 monthly reptile show and sale cheswick pa
|Posted by pghreptileshow on December 4, 2017 at 5:15 PM||comments (0)|
Pittsbugrh Reptile Show & Sale Vendor Spotlight - We are going to be taking the time to Highlight our amazing regular vendors at the show today we talked to - Rick Krumrine Reptiles
Business name - Rick Krumrine Repties
How long have you owned/ Breed Reptiles? I've had snakes and other unusual critters all my life and I bred my first snakes in 1989! They were a pair of Corn snakes.
Why do you own/ Breed ? Ever since I was a kid I've had a fascination with reptiles, snakes in general. That fascination continues to this day and I enjoy seeing people people who were once afraid of them turn into snake lovers! What more could you ask for, being able to take care of animals for a living!
What are your current projects? I have quite few things in the works, my favorites being some pine, bull and gopher morphs, lots of locality colubrids, some new ball python projects , lots of Burmese morphs, lots of rattlesnakes, and the list goes on and on...
What are you planning on bringing to the next show? Anything special ? Snakes, snakes and more snakes! Oh, and snakes!
Favorite animal? It's hard to really point to just one. I probably get more enjoyment from my rattlesnake collection than anything else!
Anything else you think we should know about You? People probably know too much already!
Website? Or contact info rickkrumrinereptiles.com or check me out on FB
|Posted by pghreptileshow on December 14, 2016 at 9:50 AM||comments (1)|
Baby it’s cold outside…Winter is here and with it the lower temperatures that cause many exotic pet owners to worry about how to transport their loved pets. Reptiles and most tropical birds, can be hard to transport safely in fridgid temps. In this article we will explore some recommendations on how to safely transport them during cold weather.
Snakes and Lizards
Reptiles are ectothermic, which means that they have to regulate their body temperature by moving to warmer or colder areas based on their needs. Their body temperature is the temperature of the environment they are in. If you live in Pittsburgh on a day that is 50 degrees and you are walking to the bus station with your reptile in a box with no means of additional heat support, his/her body temperature is going to be 50 degrees. This is clearly not ideal! However, there are many ways of creating a travel set up that is safe.
You can transport your pet reptile in an insulated environment such as a Styrofoam or other insulated coolers to maintain heat. If your reptile is small enough and hand tamed (such as many bearded dragons) you can wrap them up in a towel and tuck them inside your warm jacket. You can also try increasing the temperature of an enclosure by placing something warm in with the reptile and then enclosing the box/carrier. Examples include:
Hot water bottle
Hot water filled latex gloves
Hand warmers (available at most sporting goods stores, drugs stores, and online)
Hot water filled packs
Most amphibians do not need to be kept at temperatures over 70 degrees F (please research your specific species to determine what is safe). But remember that if you are outside in freezing temperatures, amphibians will need some supplemental heat sources such as described above together with a sponge saturated with tank water.
Aquatic turtles should not be transported in water for short distances (under 2 hours). You can transport them dry as described above. They do not need water constantly and it is much more difficult to regulate water temperature outside the home.
Sudden changes in temperatures can be dangerous for tropical birds. But did you know birds have built in down coats? Their downy feathers are used to cool them down in extreme heat, and warm them up in colder weather. In general, birds are capable of tolerating lower temperatures when they are exposed to them incrementally, however moving a bird from a warm apartment into a freezing snowy day can be a shock to them. Here are some ideas for transporting your birds safely. It is our recommendation if possible to use heated vehicles rather than the bus.
For smaller birds (cockatiels, budgies, canaries) similar methods to that of the reptile can be used. Place the bird in a small box (shoeboxes are a good option) with small holes and place a warming device inside with the bird. Be aware that birds can and do chew, so any warm object should have a towel or some sort of protective barrier between it and the bird. Also be aware that any substances used for self-heating hand warmers may be toxic to birds and should likewise be kept out of reach of the bird. And be sure that the warming device is not overheated, as these enclosures can get very warm.
*Place your bird in a small bird-safe carrier and swaddle the carrier in towels. Fleece works particularly well to protect carriers from wind while not blocking air supply.
*For larger birds, warm up an electric heating pad and secure it underneath your carrying cage. Then swaddle the cage with a blanket, warm coat, or towels to keep the heat in.
*Place a cage that has been already swaddled with towels inside a duffle bag. This will provide an extra layer for heat, as well as give an easy way to carry your bird.
*Some birds enjoy being snuggled into a warm coat or jacket and can benefit from the body heat. This technique should only be used for birds who are accustomed to traveling this way and who do not attempt to escape. Do not try this method for the first time in the winter with a flighted bird.
We hope that this article reduces your worries about how to transport your exotic pets or new purchases from the Pittsburgh Reptile Show this winter. Please call us if you have more concerns and we will be more than happy to answer any questions. 724-516-0441
|Posted by pghreptileshow on November 10, 2016 at 1:40 PM||comments (0)|
When it comes to taking care of a reptile pet it is quite different then taking care of a cat or dog. A sick or stressed reptile does not always really show what is going on, which makes it hard to define the problem. However there are some symptoms that could indicate a problem with your beloved pet. You will need to keep a good eye on this and act accordingly.
Generally speaking it is crucial to have some proper knowledge when buying a reptile. These animals need special care, specific to the type. For a reptile to be healthy, it needs to be kept in the right environment and at the right temperature with enough light (with changes in day/night). Their habitat needs to be furnished with plants, rocks etc. and there needs to be enough food specially bought for the reptile. If any of these aspects are off track, lacks of health will be a common outcome. Also take notice of the fact that, when bought at expos and other events, these reptiles are not healthy and need to be taken good care of before they become so. Extra nutrition, like dusting, will help getting your pet reach its normal health level.
Now how would you actually spot any problems with your reptile? First of all, a healthy animal doesn’t have any lateral (extra) folds in the skin, when this usually means dehydration. Also, its color has to be bright and saturated and not dull or darkened. But there are more ways to spot a stressed or ill reptile than just appearance.
Changes that could indicate stress or illness
Always check for change in food habits: is it eating more or less? Does it choose for higher moisture food?
Change in feces and urates: did the consistency change? Is it happening more or less than usual?
Changes in behavior can tell a lot about a problem: Is it more or less active? Did it become less tame? Is it soaking in the water bowl for longer than usual?
There could also be change in the speed or frequency of shedding.
Then there are problems that could be seen by observation: Is it gaping for a long time? Is it shaky? Is it having trouble with climbing? Basically anything that is off from what the pet usually does could identify problems.
If any of these things occur, it does not have to mean that something very bad is happening to your pet. Sometimes a little change in nutrition, hydration and environment could solve everything. When your pet is dehydrated or isn’t eating properly, this could be because the supplies aren’t easy to reach. When there is change in behavior this could mean that there day/night temperature and light needs to be adjusted accordingly. Really pay attention to the reptile and check on it daily to see if any problems occur. In order to make sure your pet is getting all the nutrition it needs, you can start dusting its food to reach the daily vitamin intake.
When everything has been checked and there shouldn’t be anything wrong with the environment or nutrition, or when you are just not sure about your pet’s health and worried about it, don’t hesitate and take it to a vet. Call a breeder or check with a local reptile Show for help too! Always keep in mind that, when you purchase a reptile, you need to make sure there is a vet that is specialized in reptile care available in your neighborhood.
|Posted by pghreptileshow on November 8, 2016 at 1:30 PM||comments (1)|
Subspecies: West African Dwarf Crocodile, Congo Dwarf Crocodile
Other names: Broad-snouted Crocodile, Bony Crocodile, Black Crocodile
Average Length: 5 ft (1.5 m)
Average Weight: 40 to 70 lbs (18 to 32 kg)
Life Expectancy: 75 years
The dwarf crocodile is the smallest true crocodile in the world. This little crocodile’s home is the rivers fringed with rainforest, from Senegal, West Africa to the east and south of the Congo Basin and northern Angola.
They prefer the year-round moist and warm climate of the rainforests where they rule the waters. Their choice is the lower reaches of the rivers, where the water flows at a leisurely rate, and in deep, quiet pools sheltered by overhanging vegetation. Dwarf crocodiles are also sometimes found in pools in swamps and even amidst savannah vegetation.
It will also dig burrows into the riverbanks, used as hideouts during the day. Unlike their bigger relatives, they prefer not to bask in the sun out in the open during the daytime. Where rainfall is seasonal and the ponds dry up in the dry season, these crocodiles may dig deep burrows for themselves as shelter until the water returns.
The dwarf crocodile is a heavily armored reptile. One of its most distinctive characteristics are the tough scales that cover their entire body. Most crocodiles do not have such armored scales on their underside. The bony scales not only protecting it from injury but also preventing the animal from getting burnt by the hot sun.
It is usually colored black with a yellowish underside that features many black patches. Juveniles have a light brown banding on the body and tail, with yellowish patterns on the head. In all individuals, the snout is short and blunt.
The crocodile has a number of adaptations that aid it when in the water. Their vertically flattened, muscular tail is used to propel their bodies when swimming. Webbing between their toes help them negotiate the slippery banks. Its eyes and nostrils are located on the top of its heads to enable the individual to both see and breathe while the rest of its body is submerged. This allows the creature to watch for prey and predators while almost completely hidden.
Dwarf crocodiles snap their strong jaws shut to catch their prey, secured by a powerful bite from their cone-shaped, razor-sharp teeth. Unlike a number of other animal species, this species can continuously regrow and replace their old teeth, which are pushed out by the new ones that develop below. However, they are unable to chew food and must rely on tearing their prey into pieces that can then be swallowed whole.
Like all crocodilians, this carnivorous species is an effective aquatic predator. But in line with its smaller size, the dwarf crocodile’s prey is also smaller. Fish, frogs, birds, and crabs make up the bulk of its diet. It will also take advantage of the dense vegetation to fee on an occasional small mammal.
Its diet will change with the seasons. During the raining season, it will eat the readily available fish when swollen rivers bring an influx of fish into their habitats. During the dry season, they feed mainly on crustaceans.
Like larger crocodiles, they can survive for long periods without food.
The dwarf crocodile is a nocturnal and generally solitary animal that chooses to hunt in the dark. During the day, they rest in burrows that are dug into the grounds of the river banks. If however, it is unable to find a suitable burrowing site, the crocodile will hide amongst submerged tree roots that hang into the water.
As a reptile, it is cold-blooded, meaning that it has to sunbathe to warm its body. When it gets too hot, it will seek shade or enter the water to cool down.
Breeding happens according to the seasons. North of the equator, breeding season occurs in May or June during the wet season. South of the equator, it would be October or November. This is the only time when individuals interact.
Following mating, females will make mounds of vegetation to built their nest, located at the water’s edge. They will lay clutches of around ten eggs, although up to twenty have been recorded. The wet, rotting vegetation will actually generate some heat to help the eggs hatch. After 100 days of incubation, the young, who are born only 11 inches (28 centimeters), will hatch. Immediately, they will begin to vocalise, which stimulates the female to help the hatchlings to escape from the nest. After retrieving the young, the mother will escort her offspring to the water, staying close by to watch over them for some time.
As a potential prey to so many predators like large fish, birds, mammals, and reptiles (even other crocodiles), only a few from each batch will make it to maturity at the age of five or six years.
It is not clear whether the dwarf crocodiles should constitute one species or three. Recent research has indicated that there may be three genetically distinct groups.
The genus name, Osteolaemus, means ‘bony throat’, referring to its heavy armor.
The species name, tetraspis, means ‘four shields’, referring to the four prominent shield-like scales on the back of its neck.
It is smaller than the largest lizard in Africa, the water monitor, which can exceed 2m in length
A newborn dwarf crocodile hatchling is not significantly smaller than a Nile crocodile hatchling, which are usually 12 inches (30 centimeters) long. The dwarf crocodiles’ smaller adult size is due to a much slower rate of growth.
|Posted by pghreptileshow on November 7, 2016 at 1:10 PM||comments (2)|
Wanted to share my list of local vets that care for reptiles- If you know of any that did not make my list please share!
Metropolitan Veterinary Hospital South
560 McNeilly Road Pittsburgh, PA 15226 Tel: (412) 344-6888 Fax: (412) 344-5459
Services: 24 hour routine,critical and emergency care for canine, feline, pocketpets, herps, exotics
VCA Northview Animal Hospital
223 Siebert Rd, Pittsburgh, PA 15237 - Phone: 412-695-3541
Services: Veterinary Dentistry, Small Animal Vet, Bird Vet, Exotic Animal Vet, Veterinary Medical Specialties, Veterinary Surgery, Veterinary Vaccinations, Veterinary Euthanasia, Animal Flea Control, Reptile Vet, Veterinarians, Emergency Veterinary Clinic, Spaying/Neutering, 24-Hour Vet
VCA Fox Chapel Animal Hospital
1152 Freeport Road,Pittsburgh, PA 15238 Phone : 412-449-9567
Services: Animal Flea Control, Veterinary Dentistry, Small Animal Vet, Animal Microchipping, Exotic Animal Vet, Veterinary Vaccinations, Spaying/Neutering, Veterinary Euthanasia, Veterinarians, Veterinary Medical Specialties, Animal Grooming, Veterinary Surgery
Gloria J. Goodman, VMD
3000 Concord Road, Aston, PA Phone (610) 494-2811
Services: Avian & Exotic Animal Medical Center
Wright Veterinary Medical Center
3247 Wimmer Road Bethlehem, PA 18020 Tel: (610) 865-2611
Services: Avian & Exotic Animal Medical Center
Wintergreen Animal Hospital
8439 Wattsburg Road Erie, PA 16509 Tel: (814)825-6735
All Pet Animal Hospital
5007 William Flynn Highway Gibsonia, PA 15044 Tel: (724) 444-6600
Animal Medical Hospital
1909 North Atherton Street State College, PA 16803 Tel: (814) 234-0201
|Posted by pghreptileshow on August 4, 2016 at 9:20 PM||comments (0)|
So I got a Phone call this AM from a snake owner trying to trouble shoot a sick snake that they have owned for over 15 years now... Here was one of two things i thought of and then started looking it up and here's some neat infomation i thought i would share.
Artical By Elise Xavier
Although a good number of reptiles, and pets in general, are infected with salmonella, it’s actually quite near impossible to tell if your reptile has salmonella, as the visible symptoms are minuscule if they are at all noticeable. There are over 2200 strains of salmonella, and most animals, including cats, dogs, and other mammals, as well as reptiles and amphibians, are able to be infected by many of them. That being said, in many cases, a strain of salmonella will not cause any symptoms to the host, but if passed on to another species, will make the new host quite ill. Thus, there are strands of salmonella that will do nothing to your snake, even if it is infected, yet if passed on to you, may cause you to become severely ill. This is why it’s always a good idea to wash your hands after you’ve handled your pet, even if you don’t suspect he or she has salmonella.
When an animal does manifest the symptoms of salmonella, which, as has been stated, does not happen all the time even if the animal is infected, symptoms may include weight loss, dehydration, diarrhea, and sometimes lethargy. Yet weight loss, dehydration, diarrhea and lethargy in snakes can all be caused by other things. Most of these symptoms, for example, are frequently caused by improper husbandry conditions in the snake’s enclosure, such as temperatures or humidity being too high or low. So you should never jump to the conclusion that your pet has salmonella just because you see one of the above symptoms. You should, however, be concerned about your pet if it has had a severe case of diarrhea, or shows any of the symptoms listed in extremes. Whether or not your snake has salmonella should be left for a vet to decide, but regardless of whether or not your pet has an infection, severe symptoms should not be taken lightly. Therefore, if your pet has them, you should arrange to see a vet immediately.
In order to test for salmonella, vets will take environmental swabs, samples of animal feces which contain bacterial culture, or even rectal swabs, and use these samples to test for any infection. That being said, even these tests sometimes give false negatives, as, although the bacteria does show up in feces, it does not show up in all instances. This means that even if your pet has salmonella and samples are tested by a vet, different samples will need to be collected and analyzed at different times to be certain that the negative result is not a false negative, and to be certain that the pet does not have salmonella. This results in it being very hard to test for salmonella, let alone to diagnose it by mere sight.
|Posted by pghreptileshow on July 6, 2016 at 6:25 PM||comments (0)|
Its summer time - at my house that means my kids are constantly board.... here is something i did with my kids last year that they enjoyed.
Have kids paint with water color one plate... Step one.
I didn't think it was a big deal if I just eyeballed the center of the plate, but if you are a perfectionist you might want to measure. If the fastener isn't in the exact center of the plate, when you spin the plates you will get this:
Also when the kids need out of the house you should go to the Pgh Reptile Show! Next Show July 10th !